
Victor J. "Trader Vic" Bergeron packed more excitement,
enjoyment and exotica into his 82 years than any three men.
It all started when Victor Jules Bergeron was a waiter at San
Francisco's Fairmont Hotel and owned a grocery store on San Pablo Avenue
in Oakland. His son - Victor, (Jr.) - grew up loving the food business,
living with the family in an apartment above the store and helping out
downstairs. A childhood accident cost him a leg, but left him with a
penchant for telling colorful stories.
In 1932, with a nest egg of $700 and carpentry help from his
wife's brothers - plus his mother's pot-bellied stove and oven - the
ebullient Victor built a cozy pub across the street from the store
and called it Hinky Dink's. His pungent vocabulary and ribald air made him
a popular host, as did his potent tropical cocktail concoctions and
delicious Americanized adaptations of Polynesian food.
Soon one of the most popular watering holes in Northern
California's Bay Area, the place attracted sophisticated urbanites like
writers Herb Caen and Lucius Beebe. By 1936, when Caen wittily wrote that
the "best restaurant in San Francisco is in Oakland," Vic had become "The
Trader" and Hinky Dink's had become "Trader Vic's," complete with a
showpiece Chinese oven. Its South Pacific theme "intrigues everyone. You
think of beaches and moonlight and pretty girls. It is complete escape,"
Vic said at the time.
Among Trader Vic's more tantalizing legacies is the original Mai
Tai, the bracingly refreshing rum cocktail he created at the restaurant in
1944 and introduced to the Hawaiian islands in the 1950s. Tahitian for
"the very best," Mai Tai became the slogan for his entire operation.
In creating his new cocktail, Trader Vic employed what was
becoming the ever-present hallmark of all his food and beverage recipes: a
light touch, meant to enhance but never disguise nor overpower the fine
original taste of his main ingredients. All of his recipes reflect the
man's own personality: distinctive, lighthearted and memorable.
By 1946, the world had beaten a path to Vic's door, prompting
Lucius Beebe to write in an introduction to "Trader Vic's Book of Food and
Drink" published by Doubleday that year: "Trader Vic's is ... more than an
Oakland institution. Its influence is as wide as the Pacific and as deep
as a Myrtle Bank punch. Vic's trading post is long on atmosphere, and it
is possible for the ambitious patron with a talent for chaos to get into
more trouble with obsolete anchors, coiled hausers of boa-constrictor
dimensions, fish nets, stuffed sharks... Hawaiian ceremonial costumes,
tribal drums, boathooks and small bore cannon than the waiters can drag
him out of in a week."
The Trader eventually opened 25 Polynesian-style restaurants
around the world, and several Señor Pico Mexican restaurants. His son,
Lynn Bergeron, eventually took over the restaurant operation and remains
Chairman Emeritus of Trader Vic's Restaurant Company.
The Trader's eldest daughter, Jeanne B. Hittell, is retired,
having served for many years on the Board of Directors and as
Secretary/Treasurer of the Trader's companies. Daughter Yvonne E.
Seely, is also retired after decades of dedication to charity work on
behalf of Trader Vic's.